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| Issue 40 (October 2009) |
Words: Jim Innes |
Have you ever been flying and lost orientation? Do you have a heli that is all one color and hard to see in the air? Sometimes the parts for a heli are only available in one color (often black or white). This can be an issue if you need your heli to be more visible in flight or just want the model to be unique in appearance. While you could paint or use vinyl to cover much of the heli, some parts just don't take to paint or decals very well. Luckily, there is another option that has been in use by hobbyists for many years: RIT clothes dye.
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What is RIT dye?
RIT is simply a dye that has been historically used to dye fabrics but has also been found to work well with a number of other materials. It is available in a slew of colors and can be found at your local craft store or even in the supermarket (in the laundry aisle). The best part about RIT dye is that it is inexpensive and permanent. (Depending on where you live, this particular brand of dye may not be available to you, but any similar product will work. If you follow these directions using a different type of dye, you may want to test it out on an old part first.)
What parts can be dyed?
Generally speaking, you can dye almost any type of plastic (and even some fiberglass) on our models. There are some things to consider, though:
• Most plastic canopies are made of a polycarbonate bleach-bottle plastic that just does not take well to dye. In fact, any part that is really flexible tends to not color well.
• You can only dye a part darker than its current color (e.g., you cannot dye a black part yellow).
• Be careful if you are thinking of dyeing a critical part such as a main gear, tail fork, etc. The dyeing process can soften plastic. On some parts, such as landing skids, this softening can be a positive thing, while on others it can weaken them for their intended use.
• If you have some broken parts, do tests using them first. The dyeing process is as much an art as it is a science, so any practice you can get will help you yield better results.
• When using an RIT dye, the parts will almost always come out darker than the box color indicates. When you purchase the dye (which can be powder or liquid), get the color that is a shade lighter than what you really want.
Parts and area prep
Ideally, you want to dye parts that are still new and have no stains or fuel on them. If you are dyeing parts that have been well used, clean them really well, and remove any marks or oil from them. The same goes with new parts, as they are often coated in a little mold-release agent from the factory. Remove any fasteners, metal, etc., from the parts.
Prep the area where you will be working by making sure you have paper towels, some bleach or other heavy cleaner (for any spills) and some newspaper laid out. I highly recommend a set of rubber/latex gloves unless you want your hands dyed too.
Remember, the dye is fairly permanent, so do the process outside if at all possible. Use an outdoor cook stove or side burner if you have one. If you are forced to dye the parts inside, be extra careful. And be sure you use a cheap pot that you will not need to cook food in again.
Get the color to the parts!
Fill the pot with just enough hot water to cover the parts that will be in there. Put the pot on the stove, and add some heat. When the water is simmering (just before it boils), turn the heat down just enough to hold the simmer. Add the RIT dye (I put the whole package in), and stir until it is completely dissolved. It also helps to toss in a teaspoon or so of salt to the mix.
Place the heli part into the solution, and stir occasionally. Make sure the part gets rotated in the pot often so that there is even coverage.
Every few minutes, pull the part out a little and check the color. Some parts will dye completely in mere minutes, while others may take an hour or more. This is the art portion of the process; you will need to keep checking the part until you are satisfied with the color.
Once the part is to the desired shade, remove it from the mix, and rinse it off under warm water for a few minutes. Then, let the parts dry on some paper towels. Lastly, take a soft rag, and wipe them down to remove any stray dye. A second rinse with cool water never hurts, either.
Once you are done with the dye, you can save it for later. Just pour the solution into a jar, seal it, and store it away for next time. You can clean your pot, utensils, and any spills with some bleach or other strong cleaner. Do not use the pot again for cooking any food, even if it appears clean enough.
Conclusion
Whether it is visibility or a unique look you are after, dyeing helicopter parts is a cheap and simple way to customize your model. The process is straightforward and fast, and the results are permanent. You can almost create any shade you can imagine by experimenting with different mixtures of colors, dye amounts, and soak times. If you have ever considered dyeing some parts, go for it. See ya (and your newly dyed model) at the field!
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